Part Time Lover is a cubby-house for grown-ups in the heart of the CBD. While the materials and design might have gone up-market, this hideaway behind the Adelaide Town Hall is a place to escape the humdrum of the work day.

Even early in the week, seats are filled through the middle of the day, the volume is turned up and food and drinks are consumed with gusto.

Stewart Wesson’s menu has a signature mix of naughty deep-fried bits and pieces alongside expansive share plates brimming with leaves and sprigs of herbs, this time split into three equally weighted sections for plants, seafood and meat. Colour and crunch are a given, messy fingers likely as well.

A vego version of the Korean “bo ssam” replaces pork with the smoky spiced pulp of a barbecued eggplant that is piled on to lettuce cups with a nori sheet, carrot and daikon pickles, and a chunky kim chi salsa.

A splat of hummus topped with fabulous fried haloumi, pickled red onion, radicchio, currants and a sprinkling of dukkah is Wesson through and through.

Raw kingfish is daubed with a green chilli salsa and coconut cream, then overlaid with cucumber, curry leaves, threads of nori and sesame seeds, a combination as refreshing as a sea breeze.

“Egyptian celebration rice” is worthy of any occasion, the mix of shredded lamb and chicken pieces connected by the underlying sourness of sumac and a yoghurt dressing, each mouthful a new adventure.

Throw in a glass of wine or beer along the way and a quick shared feast will come in at less than $50 and just over 60 minutes. Come join the fun.