Coskun Uysal’s brand of humble hospitality is the reason we eat out – interesting yet accessible food cooked with pride and passion. Don’t be thrown by the name, this is not a Mexican cantina and there is not a taco in sight, rather the Turkish chef/owner has bought the flavours of his homeland to downtown Carlisle Street in a value-for-money tasting menu packed with twists on the traditional.

The signature cilbir – organic egg with smoked yoghurt, brown butter and shards of chicken crackling – is the stuff of dreams, however it’s the kabak (pumpkin candy dessert) that is seriously impressive.

It’s a three-day process to turn the everyday veg into crunchy-shelled, soft-centred candy pieces, employing a technique using lime powder that harks back to the days of Ottoman empire. Each piece, subtly perfumed with clove and cinnamon, is teamed with whipped walnut mousse, carob powder and house-made tahini, blended from sesame seeds imparted with a subtle smokiness from their time over an open fire. W-o-w.

Drink to the region with well-priced Turkish-focused wines, served by affable staff in an intimate dining room. Or retreat to the sunny back courtyard surrounded by plants and blue sky.

For special occasions as much as casual dining, this neighbourhood powerhouse is a Turkish delight.

Must-eat dish: Pumpkin candy
Instagram: @tulumrestaurant