One of the defining features of the evolution of Brisbane’s dining scene is the emergence of everyday eats that matter. Feeding people is easy, but the swell of establishments raising the bar within the bulging middle market has been a major boon.

Just a stone’s throw from the CBD proper is the new casual eatery Tumbling Stone. Housed in The Johnson Hotel, part of the Art Series Hotel Group, it shares the same name as abstract artist Michael Johnson’s artwork hanging in the dining room.

The mammoth 160-seater spans both indoor and courtyard zones. In fact, the corrugated panelling would make for a shipping container vibe if not for the open bi-folds, plants and plastic drop curtains that graphically circumnavigate the perimeter.

Inside, wooden floorboards, dark furniture, lounge chairs and a run of booths offer myriad dining options.

It does have a pub restaurant feel and, as such, staff are sweet but a bit missing in action. The stellar beer list dominates the moderate wine offering, but it seems that Tumbling Stone is a place to congregate, socialise – and eat if you like, too.

The menu by chef Gavin Lewis is not groundbreaking by any stretch, but it’s brimming with value. Mouthfuls of confit Murray cod are scattered across the plate with leeks, prosciutto and blue cheese. A combination that sounds odd on paper, but somehow the food gods gave it the all clear.

A classic combination of orange and braised fennel benefits from the crunch of chopped almonds. Meanwhile, kimchi, chilli and beads of finger lime counter the sticky, wobbly blackened belly of Bangalow sweet pork.

But be careful – food comas loom large. If that’s the case put your arm up for a cleansing peach granita with a white chocolate mousse. It’s just the right fix.

If you like this, try…

Central: The Alliance Hotel

A classic old pub ethos in a modern context, dishing up bistro classics with all the trimmings in Spring Hill.

Central: The Flying Cock

A buzzy hotel in the Valley dishing up one of the best chicken parmas in the city as well as some mighty fine cocktails.

Central: Statler & Waldorf

This Caxton St gastro pub just gets better with age. Bread baked on-site and a rooftop beehive make it stand out from the crowd.