Just try to hold back when you’re faced with a line-up of mostly smallish share plates that are mighty big on flavour and would be right at home in San Sebastian or Barcelona. Sydney’s most accomplished take on a tapas bar bears all the hallmarks of Spanish locales. Legs of jamon hanging in the open kitchen? Check. Sangria on the drinks list? Check. Open late for a parade of snackable plates on call? Check, check and check.

On the first floor of restaurant group Merivale’s Coogee Pavilion, Una Más overlooks the beach via elegant arched windows. Creamy-centred spinach croquetas come with the nutty, garlicky punch of romesco sauce, while bullhorn peppers add piquancy to savoury salt-cod brandade. And what’s the coca? It’s a type of Catalonian puffy-crust pizza topped with white onion puree, slivers of potato and a sprinkling of rosemary that makes the case for carbs on carbs.

Whichever dishes you succumb to, make sure the last is the Basque cheesecake: a fluffy baked version with a near-burnt surface that’s an excellent exclamation mark signalling that you have to stop somewhere. 

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