From the trio behind The Ugly Duckling, Untitled’s Flack Studio-designed space radiates sophistication with green marble-topped tables, tan timber chairs and white textured stone walls.

Head chef Timothy Martin is on the tools, spinning simple Euro-style plates in a casual setting. Oysters, pea and ricotta arancini or the daily baked Fougasse-inspired sourdough with salted butter make easy, early bites.

Staff will charmingly divvy you up a portion of the duck ragu gnocchi – supple potato pillows, drenched in decadent, caramelised duck juices and 12-hour slow-cooked meat is comfortingly warm and wickedly good. The porchetta, which is only available for dinner, is soft and crackly where it counts and substantial enough to share if you’ve been nibbling away until now, though you’ll want to leave room for dessert.

If this venue wants us to define it, I’ll go first: Untitled is the place you go for “just one wine” but leave raving about the honey cake, (formerly Russian, now dubbed Ukraine) that sees millimetre-thin layers of cinnamon-spiced cake and cream coated in a glossy golden butterscotch sauce. Well, it is a sensational send off.

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