Urbane is niche, degustation-only fine diner with the choice simply between five or seven courses, of a regular or vegetarian menu.

The five-course menus are made more substantial and lengthy by the addition of two rounds of snacks to start, bread, a “no-waste” course and petit fours.

Urbane is one of the city’s dwindling stock of fine dining restaurants, open just three nights a week and with an expansive wine list at its disposal.

Brisbane-raised Andrew Gunn, with a CV including work at French Michelin-starred establishments, took the helm last year and has introduced a more European bistro-influenced style.

The menu changes regularly but snacks in the style of a scallop slider, mushroom cappuccino and sourdough croutons with buckwheat and comte crust set the scene.

A standout dish, on both the vegetarian and regular menus, is poached fennel baked inside brioche, with a delicious miso pouring sauce.

Nine-plus marbled wagyu and bonito could follow and dessert is an elegant hazelnut latte concoction.

Urbane remains a cosseting experience and service is its strong suit.

Exceptional dish: Poached fennel brioche