The newly renovated space could just as easily be an art gallery. Each room reveals bright tonal contrasts, rich caramel walls in one room, powder blue in another, with theatrical light sculptures of folded metal that bend and shape light across the textured walls. And the creativity doesn’t stop there.

The menu proves Wood’s talent at turning simple dishes into showstopping masterworks. Free-range Bannockburn chicken is brined, poached, steamed and roasted, then served with mushroom duxelles and a rich kombu sauce that delivers an umami flavour bomb of MSG proportions.

A mussel schnitzel made from a battered hash of potato and shellfish deserves a place on every pub menu. The wine list, designed by master sommelier Sebastian Crowther, includes a mix of iconic wineries like Tyrrell’s, Crawford River, Jim Barry, Henschke and Grosset alongside alternative drops, from rare varietals to skin-contact wines.

The restaurant is billed as a neighbourhood diner, but we’re not so sure about that. If locals thought they could keep Ursula’s all to themselves, they’d better think again.

To read our full list of reviews for NSW, head here.