Plazzo Versace oozes five-star opulence and glamour. Their Italian restaurant Vanitas is no different, sprayed with gold and set to the backdrop of a sparkling pool.

You might have entered a world of decadence, but some of the food is exquisitely simple. Heirloom tomatoes with a generous knot of oozing burrata, basil, black olives and a lone crunchy slither of garlic prove that fine ingredients put together in that classic Italian way can still headline.

House-baked fluffy focaccia encrusted with salt crystals jostles for centre stage.

Other dishes are more overt show-offs. Spanner crab ravioli is topped with a squid ink tuille crown, rich mullet bottarga and sweet brown butter. Wild mushroom tortellini is bravely drenched in runny egg yolk and parsnip, a little too al dente but full of flavour.

Mains like red emperor market fish are beautifully cooked but lonely on the plate, so order sides. And if you want to be your best Versace self, don’t ignore sublime desserts like mousse made from Valrhona dark chocolate with cookie sable and salted caramel ice cream.

Vanitas is proof that some of the best things in life are simple and delicious, such as cloudy bread and fruity olive oil. But it’s also proof that sometimes, you need a bit of luxury in your life.

Exceptional dishes: Spanner crab ravioli, smoked corn, squid ink tuille, grey mullet bottarga, brown butter. Fresh market fish, roasted swede, pickled muscat, avocado, chilli, burnt butter emulsion