Hidden behind an unassuming butcher shop on busy Sandgate Road in Albion, Vaquero is perhaps the ultimate surprise package.

The suburban eatery, in Brisbane’s inner north, has a fit-out to rival many of its fine dining city sisters, the 120-year-old building intimately lit and elegant with a brass-topped bar and kitchen pass along one wall, opposite cosy banquette seating and timber tables. Meanwhile a green-scaped cobbled courtyard offers alfresco dining perfect for Queensland’s climate.

The food in play is serious, sophisticated and seductive, with classic flavours given a modern spin.

Perhaps start with a Scotch egg, the usual sausage meat casing swapped for the intense Spanish blood sausage morcilla. Or be even bolder with sheeps’ brains with a green chilli sauce and parsley puree. There is, of course, less challenging fare, such as line-caught fish with pumpkin and the Middle Eastern spice blend ras el hanout, as well as free-range pork with globe artichokes. But if you dare to explore, you’re in safe hands, as this is a restaurant unafraid to push the boundaries.

Vaquero is also prepared to poke fun of itself in a dessert labelled the ‘Meringue snowman’, which is just that, his arms made of chocolate twigs, his eyes blueberries.

Perhaps even outshining the food, though, is the drinks list – a self-titled Vaquero pale larger alongside quality craft brews from across Australia and Scotland; classic cocktails and contemporary inventions, and a stand-up array of wine.

With service that doesn’t skip a beat, Vaquero is a suburban restaurant city eateries should be envious of.

Must-eat dish: Meringue snowman
Instagram: @vaquerodining