The narrow entry, past a boutique butchery fronting busy Sandgate Road, gives a solid clue about the culinary focus here — meat in its many guises. But don’t let the hole-in-the wall facade of this 160-year-old heritage building fool you, because once inside the moody dining room, the space really expands — as does the menu. With a brass-topped bar laden with charcuterie boards featuring cuts cured onsite in The Albion Butchery, the restaurant has comfy banquette seating, regular tables and a cobbled courtyard that seats 24 under a retractable roof.

Vaquero is Spanish for a herder of cattle, but the menu references other parts of Europe as well, with a hearty fish bouillabaisse with fried sourdough and almond puree, and mushroom and ricotta rotolo with celeriac, pine nuts and sage.

Classical training is evident in well-balanced mains such as Brisbane Valley quail with pecan and morcilla (sausage) farce and whipped ricotta and burnt grapes, while aged wagyu comes perfectly caramelised from the Josper charcoal oven. There’s a cosy, neighbourhood feel about Vaquero, and with a decent wine list and friendly service, it’s an ideal drop-in spot for a midweek bite or Saturday date night.

Exceptional dish: charcuterie plate, for up to 2, 4, or 8 people ($25, $50, $75). Great value with selections changing daily according to the best from the onsite micro butchery.