Brisbane’s suburban dining scene is alive and kicking. From The Wolfe in East Brisbane to The Residence in Hawthorne, more and more restaurants are foregoing the city centre.

One of the latest to head to the ’burbs is Vaquero in Albion – from Nick Pinn and Laurie Rogencamp, the team behind Malt Dining, Malt Pier and bottle-shop group Malt Traders.

Tucked beside cafe Artie & Mai on busy Sandgate Rd, Vaquero looks like an unassuming butcher’s shop from the outside, with a small cabinet boasting a collection of salamis, while dry-aged beef hangs in the background.

The 120-year-old building is dark and elegant, with a brass-topped bar and kitchen pass along one wall, and opposite, a cosy banquette and timber tables. A cobbled courtyard is shielded from the elements by a retractable roof.

Chef Damon Porter (ex-Aquitaine and Malt Dining) delivers classic flavours with a modern spin. His take on a crab and tuna terrine sees diced raw tuna and mango tumbled together with slivers of lime and fresh crab meat.

Pork belly gets a sweetness hit with a thick, glossy prune puree. But it’s a rolled lamb saddle that really shines, with the tender, blushed meat seasoned by a salty spinach sauce and horseradish cream. Smoked duck breast with rhubarb, peppered cucumber yoghurt and stone fruit begs a return visit.

While the mains are sophisticated, it’s all about fun for dessert, with an adorable meringue snowman arriving in a pool of lemon curd dotted with fresh blueberries. It was as tasty as it was cute.

Service doesn’t skip a beat and, as you’d expect from the owners of one of the city’s best bottle shops, the wine list is excellent. It’s an impressive package worthy of the trip across town.

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