The standing of the wine is without question, the restaurant long a prototype for winery dining. Chef Brendan Pratt, who took the reins two years ago, shows his handle on the region and the state’s best produce. A snack of sweet buttermilk crumpet and Shark Bay crab is doused with a smoked butter emulsion. Then there’s the marron, endemic to the southwest: Pratt pulls no punches, serving the plump, sweet meat with his own mushroom XO for the best marron dish we’ve had in a very long time.