The crumbling remains of a barn has been transformed into a charming eatery and cellar door at the gateway to McLaren Vale and the Fleurieu. Victor’s Place, the name a reference to the road and ultimate destination, is something special.

The old structure, rebuilt with a cleverly disguised roof and glass sealing the open side, has become the dining space, with tables spilling outside and picnic rugs on a fresh patch of lawn. It’s an idyllic setting that comes to life on a Sunday afternoon, with a few kids scampering across the grass and, later in the day, a guitarist playing.

If that sounds a tad folksy, the cooking is quite the opposite, the ideas and execution sophisticated and showing a solid grasp of the contemporary Australian playbook, with plenty of grains, vegies, nuts and seeds.

Slices of kangaroo loin, with a pleasing smokiness and the ruby lustre of prosciutto, are laid over a base of chewy freekeh, with wedges of lightly picked beets, in both purple and golden tones, tucked in the gaps. Grilled asparagus spears sit alongside a spreading pool of white almond-based gazpacho that has been whizzed into a foam.

A perfectly managed pork cutlet is accompanied by shredded green apple, chickpeas and cauliflower florets chopped to match the legumes. A light reduction sauce, cut with cider vinegar, brings together a convincing take on a Sunday pork roast. A more ambitiously modern plate of seafood on a surprisingly rich carrot and ginger puree doesn’t quite gel.

Dessert offers safer ground, with batons of poached rhubarb, toasted granola and a scoop of barley malt ice cream that links back to the brewing operation next door.