It’s the view that has long been the star attraction at Videre.

The restaurant on the 21^st floor of the RACV Royal Pines offers a vista across the property’s championship golf course to the twinkling Gold Coast skyline, the city’s high rises standing as straight as soldiers in the distance.

The fit-out is in keeping with the hotel location – basic but comfortable with large, leather armchairs tucking into exceedingly wide, white clothed tables under a double-height ceiling.

While the view may be the lure for diners, chef Grant Parry is determined not to let his Modern Australian menu be outshined. Take, for example, marinated tuna, the cubed fish crusted with black sesame and chives sitting on a ring of jelly-like chicken dashi splashed with crème fraiche – refined, elegant, delicious. Or perhaps the comforting al dente tortellini filled with sweet Noosa spanner crab in a ginger-spiked sweet corn cream.

Mains are perhaps more predictable – salmon, beef with mushrooms, lamb and peas – but a fillet of lemon-poached snapper is by no means less enjoyable, the flaking fish sitting atop braised leeks in a cream sauce pimped with herb oil.

The wine list favours the big names – Shaw & Smith, Cape Mentelle, Henschke et al., with a particular section dedicated exclusively to Penfolds – and safely ensures plenty of suitable food matches.

Desserts walk traditional lines, too, even going as far as crepes Suzette prepared tableside for a touch of dining theatre.

It’s old-school touches like these that show Videre is a modern restaurant with a complete appreciation of classic hospitality.

Must-eat dish: Marinated tuna
Instagram: @videre_restaurant