The view comes first. Then the Vue.

Shannon Bennett gives visitors to his sky-high fine diner a few moments to savour the sparkling city below, then the focus swiftly switches to what’s on the table… a flute of Champagne, smoked asparagus spears with oyster emulsion, and raw Flinders Island lamb fenced in with spring peas and finger lime.

This is how one of the most expensive restaurant meals in Melbourne begins, and the view is certainly from the top so far.

Now into its seventh year on the Rialto’s 55th floor, Vue de Monde glows with gold and white neon, and runs to a gentle techno beat. The kitchen is open plan, all hushed bustle, while black clad waiters swirl around the room with practised ease. Pushing cheese trolleys and butter churners one moment, setting marshmallows on fire the next. And offering to tailor each course to a wine from Vue’s astonishing cellar.

Diners are active participants – you’re encouraged to swipe emu jerky into eggplant – but make no mistake, this is dining at its finest enhanced by the drama of the room.

Queensland marron comes with pickled kohlrabi and squid ink, beef rib-eye is elevated by fermented truffles, and the assertive gaminess of magpie goose is offset by cabbage and muntari berries.

There’s dazzle and daring at every turn, but Bennett’s self-described “gentle progression of flavour’’ over 16 courses allows for one old school flourish in the mix – a cumulus of airy chocolate aka the best chocolate souffle you will probably ever have.

The view and the Vue will leave a lasting impression long after you have descended from the clouds back into the reality of Melbourne CBD.

Must eat dish: Spanish mackerel with smoked koji, sea herbs and desert lime
Instagram: @vuedemonde