It can lay claim to possibly the best BBC in Adelaide (if you’re an out-of-towner, ask a local about this cult dish of beans, bean curd, and mysterious magnificence). The soft-shell crab is up there as well, and the tea-smoked duck is delectable.

Long banquettes inside are perfect for gathering some mates and filling up the table with shared dishes and shared wines, or it’s never a problem to put a bigger top on an outside table when the weather is good.

Susannah, who handles the front of house with an almost psychic flair, can be entirely relied on to choose the food for you – particularly handy with big, rowdy groups.

Wah Hing is perpetually busy but the staff never seem rushed, and there’s almost always a table available despite the crowds.

The biggest danger with Wah Hing is that it’s tempting to order your favourites every time. The shallot pancakes are as hot as the face of the sun, savoury, salty and forever more-ish. The prawn toast is terrific as well. Steamed scallops are a must. So is that duck.

But the biggest reward is taking a risk every now and then – chances are, you’ll just add to your “favourites” list. Anyone for sizzling black pepper kangaroo, or spicy eggplant and chicken hotpot?