Yes, it’s another Asian restaurant on a street full of great Asian restaurants, but here the service is calmer, the feel more akin to refined dining, the whole experience more restrained. 

It starts with the moody, softly-lit space, finished with low hung pendant lights and wall-length mirrors. Start with shallot pancakes, shaped into a ring and made with a wonderfully short pastry, followed by spring rolls so plump they’re begging to be dipped in the nearby pot of sweet plum sauce. Salt and pepper squid is coated in a light batter that isn’t too oily and fires up your palate with a big chilli hit.

A serve of lemon chicken comes piled high, three chicken breasts lightly battered and coated in a sauce that gets the balance right between sweet and sour. Sizzling steak arrives with all the theatre you’d expect, multiple juicy fillets crackling in the pan, coated with a glossy, salty-sweet Cantonese-style sauce.

It’s a reminder of the high quality produce and generous serves you can expect at this Gouger St institution – even if you have to pay a little more.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.