It was like torture: gazing out over the turquoise Noosa River, our skin sticking to the leather banquette, fanning ourselves with the menu. In short, we were sweltering.

While Wasabi boasts one of the best restaurant views in Noosa, the lack of airflow – despite the plentiful windows – made enjoying dining at the Sunshine Coast’s most lauded Japanese restaurant a bit of a challenge.

In hindsight, we should have asked for the windows to be shut and the air-conditioning to be cranked up. Temperature control aside, the team running the floor at Wasabi are on their game – especially our convivial, knowledgeable and proficient waitress.

They cheerfully walk diners through the various menu options, divided into the seven- or nine-course chef’s choice, or the three-course offering.

From the latter menu, we began with the steamed local spanner crab with sushi rice. Though the loose rice required ninja warrior-like chopstick skills, the battle with the utensils was worth it for the sweet seafood with preserved lemon and daikon.

Even tastier were the lamb dumplings, flavoured with shallot, bamboo and shiitake, and married with a citrusy ponzu dipping sauce and dumpling liquor tea. My partner ordered the braised lamb belly, exquisitely grilled over white charcoal and paired with pickled radish. More lovely combinations followed. Nori salt added an umami hit to the tempura-battered zucchini flowers with sake-poached bug tail and Mooloolaba king prawns.

For dessett, try the firm-set yuzu custard with a pear and ginger sorbet, or finish with a nip of whisky or glass of sake from the diverse and generous drinks list. And if you just can’t resist that sparkling water, a post-dinner dip is always a possibility.