Wharf One may be a bright, modern space, all glass and light and water views – but its cooking is old-school. That’s not to say it’s old-fashioned. Specialising in local produce cooked on the woodfired grill, chef Lucas Gallafassi extracts maximum flavour from simple high-quality ingredients. Proteins getting the treatment include Southern Ocean squid with chipotle aioli; barbecue beef short rib with mash; grilled pork belly with wombok and chilli caramel; and porterhouse with bone marrow and jus. Then there are vegetable dishes, such as the warm salad of wood-grilled seasonal vegetables with smoked hummus. For 10 or more people, plan 24 hours ahead and order the Berkshire suckling pig feast – all the trimmings, carved at the table. The menu also includes lighter dishes, perfect for hot days: think salads, carpaccio and gin-cured salmon. From November the view will take in artist Bruce Munro’s latest installation, Tropical Light.