House-cured bacon and egg rolls in the morning, Sommerlad chicken ribolita for lunch, Champagne and Yarra Valley caviar in the afternoon, cheeky gins and tonics before the sun goes down, and late-night cheese – Paul Wilson’s philosophy is to leave no appetite unsated.

The hospitality veteran’s long-awaited, multi-faceted Prahran Market project has come to fruition and it’s nothing short of the bomb.

While market shoppers might grab a custom-roasted coffee to-go before coming back for lunch at the cafe, the flagship Luxe Brasserie is where Wilson’s many talents shine brightest.

A woodfired oven is put to excellent use across a range of meats, while fruits of the sea also benefit from the chef’s fastidious eye for quality: impeccably sourced and served, oysters are sourced from Coffin Bay to Moonlight Flat, and are reason alone to return.

There’s a zealous focus on the “sustainable”, “organic” and “biodynamic”, and if ever there ever was proof needed these farming methods pay off on the plate, look no further than the brined, smoked and roasted Milawa chicken. Served with a garden of leaves, fat croutons and hunks of pancetta, it’s simply perfect.

Highlights are superlative: elegantly smoked Petuna trout comes with punchy pickled fennel and a devilled egg alongside; generous crab on seaweed-flecked crepe is a triumph of ocean flavours; while a farro, beetroot and barberry combo is just one of many salads worth making friends with.

Classic yet current, big-hearted generous and delicious, Luxe Brasserie at Wilson & Market marks the triumphant return of the modern brasserie to Melbourne’s dining landscape.

Must eat dish: Trout with devilled egg
Instagram: @wilsonandmarket