Brasserie by night and cafe and takeaway window by day, Paul Wilson’s long-awaited multi-part venture at the Prahran Market has finally been realised.

You can see the British-born gun chef firing off gorgeous and classic fare like trout with devilled egg or a smoked whole roast chook at his posh brassiere, with the “lifestyle cafe” happily afforded the same smart approach.

Top-notch producers are the name of the game here. Bread is from Woodfrog Bakery, eggs are from Daylesford’s Real Eggs while Andrew’s Choice provides the black pudding and sausage.

Black cutlery and linen tablecloths set the refined tone, but this is no trussed-up experience. Go a proper English fry-up for two or get that chook in a rib-sticking ribollita soup with cavolo nero.

The day-time menu is a little incoherent but under signature breakfasts, you’ll find the pancake. It’s threaded with seaweed for salty tang, and topped with a perfectly poached egg beside a tranche of house-smoked ocean trout so lush and flaky it’s a pleasure to eat. Subtle horseradish cream and pickled cucumber add depth and delight to this standout dish.

Served in a heavy-duty ramekin, the eggs en cocotte falls between risotto and baked eggs. Set in a savoury meld of just-tender farro and wild mushrooms, the eggs are offset with a sprinkle of creamy goat’s cheese and fried sage leaves for crunch. It’s wonderfully hearty and nourishing in the thick of a Melbourne winter.

Milk coffee is an orange-tinged custom blend from St Ali.

The clinical dining room and artwork won’t please everyone, but the food is almighty at this one-stop shop where bold and beautiful flavours reign. Must visit.