From his days at GOMA restaurant, Josh Lopez is a chef with plenty of admirers. Now the owner of suburban bistro The Wolfe, he has brought with him his trademark thoughtful, clever and at times tricksy — but never too much — wine-friendly food.

There’s a definite push toward degustation over a la carte and for the sake of making life easier and seeing what the kitchen is truly capable of, it’s a worthy option. It’s especially so when presented with a dish such as Sommerlad rooster — the breast poached and maryland confited with rosella puree, crispy skin, rapini, rose petals and a whole lot of other, beautifully treated elements. Or how about a caramelised Jerusalem artichoke dessert with toasted sunflower, apple sorbet, poached apple balls, Pepe Sayer marscapone and honey that’s only just sweet but brilliantly so.

There’s the option to BYO on a Tuesday night, but why would you when there’s a very good, pleasingly international set of wines on offer, including some gems under Coravin.

The service can, at times, feel a tad nervous and stilted but it’s a small price to pay for the adventure that’s offered in this cosy, slightly formal, but lovingly intimate establishment.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): Jerusalem artichoke dessert