Never may you see a more pretty parade of food than at Woodland House. It’s where tradition and technique is paid the utmost respect, but in a most relaxed and modern way.

You’ll dine in the stately Prahran mansion that was once home to Jacques Reymond, where its two former chefs Hayden McFarland and Thomas Woods have been treading their own path for several years now.

An array of fancy snacks lands early, perhaps whipped smoked eel custard with brioche or a shot of zingy clear tomato consomme.

The ensuing courses – up to 10 in a sitting – will arrive at a sensible pace, each building masterfully on the next, with a vegetarian menu a true highlight even for paid-up carnivores.

Borlotti beans and artichoke in a tomato vinegar tinged with turmeric has a spot-on sting, while velvety Jerusalem artichokes and al dente shimeji mushrooms shimmy in a buttery hollandaise that’s lick-the-plate tasty.

Later, there might be a lobe of golden beetroot or a grilled piece of ox tongue anchored in sunflower pesto and crowned with a battered onion ring so dinky it belongs in a dollhouse.

Prettiest of them all though is the pineapple quince dessert, a taste of the tropics with textural hits from creme fraiche and honeycomb all bearing a diaphanous hat made from dehydrated quince purée.

Each gorgeous dish is underpinned by happy-to-be-there service, sometimes theatrical but always knowledgeable, especially when it comes to that incredible cellar of wines. Style points, too, for the elegant dining room that impresses and welcomes.

Dress up, splash out and enjoy the Woodland House rules.

Must eat dish: Pineapple quince, creme fraiche, honeycomb
Instagram: @woodland_house