For those living in Sydney, there’s long been a rivalry between those who live north of the Harbour Bridge, and those who don’t. Debate has been waged on both fronts over who has the best beaches, the nicest houses, the better restaurants. But every so often, a truce is declared when those south of the bridge discover the north’s hidden secrets.

Yachiyo is one such gem. Nestled along Mosman’s Middle Head Head Road, the restaurant, which has until recently laid low, is touting a new makeover and fresh menu. Rather than screaming from the rooftops, chef Mitsuhiro Yashio is luring diners with the restaurant’s pork katsu bun, a heavenly interpretation of a katsu-crumbed pork bao with wasabi jerk mayo.

Having flown the flag for traditional Japanese cuisine at their Darlinghurst venue since 2009, the new menu at the North Shore venue reflects chef Yashio’s new direction, focusing on clever twists on Japanese favourites. And it’s clearly wooing the locals. Groups of families fill the restaurant, and couples on weeknight dates waiting on a table dot the footpath when we visit – some for a quick meal, others for a night out without leaving the neighbourhood.

When the food arrives, it’s easy to see why Yachiyo is so popular. Favourites like agedashi get a deft twist, arriving as a golden sphere of lightly fried minced mushroom and delivering an intense yet welcoming umami hit. The popcorn shrimp is so good, it almost turns this avocado hater into a convert, with its crisp tempura-like shell and molten avocado centre.

The real star of the show, though, is Yashio’s sashimi, which is selected and prepared daily by the team. Fresh yuzu delicately cuts through a dish of kingfish carpaccio and a robust chilli sesame dressing, while the accompanying corn tempura is basically an adult version of crack popcorn. The restaurant is also making waves on the yakitori front with its salmon belly skewer, and don’t pass on the opportunity to try the yuzu sake, Japan’s answer to limoncello.

It’s creative food that’s not out to change the face of Japanese cuisine, but it is another great reason to head north over the ‘Coathanger’ for dinner.