Flitting from fish-net fixtures to racy red wallpaper, a whimsical fit-out sets the tone. The menu covers the expected bases – raw, rolls, robata, agemono, izakaya – with unexpected ingredients.

Salmon sashimi is reinvented in tacos, while pillowy cubes of local haloumi are skewered and soaked in smoked honey. Truffled tosazu and yuzu sesame turn wisps of snapper sashimi into a fragrant feast, and spicy Queensland spanner crab tops an izakaya-style snack of crispy rice.

It’s the least intricate of the desserts, but chocolate fondant with matcha green tea foam and goma ice cream is pure pleasure. Capping off this playful package is bright, engaged service from staff trained to find the fun. Some extra investment in introducing staff to the worthy refreshment list would pay off, but it’s hard to go wrong choosing your own adventure from Japanese whisky, sake and cocktails. 

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