In Savage’s hands the familiar root is transformed into smoked batons, a subtly sweet puree and ruby-hued pickles dressed with wild fennel fronds and harissa oil. It’s surprising and oh so damn pretty. At their bistro in the former 1970s artists’ collective Yellow House, chef Savage and sommelier Nick Hildebrandt were among the first Australian fine-dining restaurateurs to embrace a vegetarian menu.

Post-pandemic they’ve gone full vegan, but don’t expect to see mock meats or pulled jackfruit on your plate. The six-course set meal is built around seasonal fresh produce – an ode to fruit and vegetables etched out in textures and colour. House-made white polenta is spoonfuls of soul-warming, sprinkled with crumbled popcorn and purple blossoms. Hemp seed ricotta draped in ribbons of pumpkin gets crunch from toasted grains.

The aesthetic plating peaks at dessert No.1: a snowy scoop of bergamot orange parfait on a white lemon myrtle granita. While not every dish will have hardcore carnivores forswearing steak forever, Yellow is a compelling glimpse of what vegan dining can be.

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