When the Bentley Boys — Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt — turned Yellow into a restaurant serving a purely vegetable-based menu for dinner, everyone got excessively emotional.

Why does it matter? It is just food. And here in the reimagined Yellow it is astonishingly good. Much remains the same in regards to fitout, but the energy is overwhelming positive.

Baby raw radishes and Japanese turnips on the stalk beg to be swiped through a velvet fennel butter. Fresh peas and pea mousse add a grassy, earthiness to pickled daikon, while toasted buttermilk crumb adds crunch. And kohlrabi ribbons lie in a floral arrangement on a bed of enoki mushroom in a deep vegetable broth.

Lose that meaty chip on your shoulder, Australia.

Must eat: Roasted parsnip, cabbage, buttermilk