We’re an emotional bunch aren’t we? It seems we can’t put anything in our pie hole without someone verbalising an opinion from their own. Vegans were up in arms about the Australia Day Lamb ads that belittled their eating habits. The ad got the all clear from the Advertising Standards Bureau (ABS) with a sentiment (though I’m reading between the lines) ‘to learn to take a joke’.Culturally we’ve never really been able to shake off the attitude that real men eat meat. Why does it matter how one fuels their own body? It is, after all, just food.

A few weeks ago Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt decided to turn one of their venues – Yellow- into a restaurant serving a purely vegetable-based menu. Well, for dinner at least. News articles triggered a sea of keyboard warriors condemning the move – from both camps.

Some suggested it was a desperate last grab for custom from a failing business, or that the decision would send them bankrupt. Others questioned their ethics of being truly vegetarian, or vegan, as they’re still serving bacon at brunch.

What fascinates me is that restaurants, despite popular belief, aren’t a public service. They are in fact small businesses, and the food in which they serve really is entirely up to them. If you want to eat meat it’s simple – eat at another restaurant. Don’t like ballet? Then go see a rock band. Don’t like VB? Drink another beer. No biggie mate. I listen to Iron Maiden, but have no time for corporate boy bands – but both should be able to co-exist as we all have different likes and needs.

Anyway. Yellow.

Given the modus operandi of our social construct, the change to going vegetarian is in fact a major one – it signals an evolution, or perhaps maturity within our culinary landscape. It’s not that vegetarian restaurants don’t exist – but the team behind this have serious pedigree.

Savage and Hildebrandt’s flagship Bentley Restaurant and Bar is one of the best restaurants in the country, and Monopole one of the best wine bar styled restaurants.

Although it was a solid little bistro, Yellow was kind of the forgotten sibling until now. Much remains the same within the walls of the 1950s converted gallery terrace in regards to décor. There’s a nice balance between industrial chic and bistro comfort.

There is, however, renewed energy in the staff. No doubt there were initial points of hesitation, but they’re incredibly enthusiastic, proud and keen on embracing the new mantra. Many restaurants could do with fresh air in the lungs like this.

It may be startling news to some but Savage has always had vegetarian leanings and those that have dined in his restaurants, particularly Bentley, will know it’s an integral part of his menus.

The leap for Hildebrandt was even smaller. His interest in natural, organic, biodynamic and unfiltered wines began long before the change was earmarked. As such it’s a continuation of Hildebrandt’s fun, quirky and adventurous spin on what to swill.

When we arrive the restaurant is full of all walks of life. There’s not a frail, pale hippy in sight – despite what the trolls might have you believe.

A velvety fennel butter begs to have baby raw radishes and Japanese turnips on the stalk swooshed through it. Fresh peas and pea mousse bring sweetness and earthiness to the crisp pickled daikon. Toasted buttermilk crumb adds crunch. Then a moment of joy and revelry. Pink hued Kohlrabi ribbons fashioned into a flower lay on a bed of enoki mushroom wading in fascinating vegetable broth.

It’s a triumph. In fact I’d travel to Yellow simply for this dish.

Tongues of golden beetroot are sprinkled with radicchio powder and given a punch with plum vinegar and malt. Then things get more substantial. The gooey chew of black rice joins the crisp bite of snake bean, then charred leek runs rings around pressed curd with black garlic. Though it could have done with less curd.

We finish with a fennel pollen ice cream and plum broth that’s a little too intense for mine, but it’s texturally delightful.

Savage and his head chef Adam Wolfers treats vegetables with the same respect they’d give any produce, and the result is stunning – in fact, its arguably his finest culinary work – less a slight on Bentley, but more a credit to his innate dedication to what comes from the soil.

Book your table here:

Lose the chip on your shoulder Australia, Savage’s bravery should be rewarded with your custom – it’ll be worth it.