Melbourne diners care a lot about Japanese food, from lunchtime handrolls to hip izakayas and the pricey, yet perennially busy, Nobu.

New to the fray is Yokocho, translating as ‘alley way’, which in Tokyo is where you’ll find the capital’s famous hole-in-the-wall eateries.

Things are a little more expansive here, with 90 seats on the first level of the Mid City Arcade. The modern space has a low-lit elegance, with a central bar leading to the dining room and the outdoor terrace, which is where you want to be if weather permits. Perched above Bourke Street, it affords a view of some impressive architecture you might not have noticed from the street.

Each party is greeted by a collective ‘irasshaimase’ (welcome) from waiters, and the effort doesn’t wane. Eager staff guide through the big, punchy menu, which has benefited from a recent zhush by Toshio Matsudo, a Japanese chef of two decades who’s cooked for prime ministers and presidents.

Best start with something fried: the karaage chicken is gnarly coated and juicy-fleshed to swipe through mayo, and the bronzed-bottomed gyoza generously plump.

Light and delicate spicy tacos deliver the heat with a dice of seafood in a crisped, blistered shell, while bonito flakes bolster the fishy delish of the takoyaki (octopus balls).

Vego or not, the miso eggplant is sweet succulence, and the scallop ceviche a delight, each super-fresh disc dotted with ikura (roe) in a tangy moat of yuzu and soy.

Larger plates extend to miso black cod, grilled to perfection and sticky with a sweet soy marinade.

Japanese craft beers, sake, plum wine and cocktails – like the gin-based, lychee-laced Harajuku Girl – team with the theme, as do desserts.

For snacking or feasting, this is the land of the rising yum.