Eclectic is a word often abused by chefs and their marketers; a synonym for confusion and disharmony. Personally, I like focus, a sense of place, and of meaning, perhaps history or experience. Thankfully at Young George, it’s a springboard for Melissa Palinkas’ undeniable talent for flavour. Her food is bright and full of joy. She is a chef that revels in what she does. It can’t be said of all. The truth of this game is that sometimes you eat food that although technically accurate, more than passable, has no soul; an ingredient that can’t be discounted.

The kitchen at Young George and the The Wine Store before it has gone through a number of iterations; the food always passable but nothing to really shout about. With Palinkas at the helm, it’s flying. A Sunday afternoon sees the bar come restaurant quiet but comfortable; whereas a Friday night return sees every seat taken, bar stools reserved, the bar and kitchen going full steam, the punters unreservedly enjoying their efforts.

Back to that eclectic menu and the ramen chicken milk bun. I’ll first post a warning. These things will give you sleepless nights if you don’t sate your appetite fully. Take a pro tip and order big. It may feel gluttonous, but you’re in a safe place. The milk buns are made fresh onsite each day, using fresh cream and milk. The chicken coated in a smashed up mix of ramen noodle and cornflake gives a jagged, crisp and sweet coat to the chicken. With the milk bun this could be too much, if it weren’t for the fermented slaw that delivers funk and acidity.

My last taste of truffle for the year is infused into housemade mortadella. Subtle, earthy undertones, with a light, silkiness that comes through from the pork. Palinkas has been making her own smallgoods for a number of years, with some early guidance from Perth’s own “Prince of Flesh”, Vince Garreffa.

Young George’s, Fremantle octopus is hands down one of the best I’ve had. Laid in an eye popping bread sauce, laced with chillies and garlic, it’s studded with a mutton Merguez crumb. The octopus itself is dusted with sumac, tentacle ends crisp and chewy, while the thicker ends give way easily. A sweet dish of roasted carrots is further amped up by unctuous roasted black garlic. There’s a depth to the dish, that deserves a pause. Mouth full, there’s lots of head nodding and pointing going on at this point. While there’s a touch too much sweetness, a squeeze of lemon from the octopus dish brings balance.

With mutton from Moojepin, there’s a take on a breadless Rueben. Coated with pastrami spices, there’s sauerkraut and dots of mustard around the plate, a nasturtium leaf or two to bring you back to the southern hemisphere; a white bean cream and dill pickle bringing the package together. Palinkas is playing on both the obvious Reuben inspiration, but also bringing in a meat of her childhood. To me it brings shades of backyard barbie, with smoke, fat and a hit of good mustard.

Young George is eclectic and addictive. There’s so much going on from the smallgoods, to the main plates, to a Sunday roast, and a drinks programme that’s kicking goals. It demands many a return.