Brussels sprouts can recall unpleasant childhood memories for some. But at James Klapanis’s new Hawthorn East venue, Young’s Wine Rooms, they make a crowd-pleasing starter. A showering of manchego melts into the crisp sprout folds, curled back after a jolt in the deepfryer. Toss in cumin-laced lamb, beef sucuk, a spicy Turkish sausage, and a drizzle of cumin and paprika oil and it’s one of chef Sina Sucuka’s best offerings.

But there’s plenty more to love here.

Klapanis converted the old Young’s Auction House into a hip space in February. The brick walls and black metal beams are a nod to the building’s history, the warm, modern dining room an inviting choice. Daytime diners can ask for a spot in the sun-lit indoor courtyard, complete with olive tree and retractable glass roof that’ll get a workout in the warmer months.

City-slickers were already heading out here to Klapanis’s mod-Vietnamese joint, St Cloud Eating House, but this wine bar gives them even more reason to visit. Perhaps it’s because at Young’s you can come for a snack, a three-course meal or a cheeseboard with a wine from the expansive Mediterranean-leaning list. Maybe it’s to marvel at Sucuka’s kitchen smarts, seeing him weave smoked meats into the weekly croqueta special (jamón Iberico and manchego perhaps) or making sausage for the sprout dish.

Try the hay-smoked duck main before it retires. Cold-smoked by day, pan-fried and rendered golden later and served crisp skin up and medium-rare with the sticky dark caramel sauce is lifted by pops of fresh raspberries.

You might be swayed to end on the lovely Basque cheesecake that flies out of the kitchen, but the more complex vanilla hazelnut praline bombe wins.

Compliments also to the savvy, hard-working wine-geek waiter. And while this may be a wine bar, the food demands full attention.