Well, hello yellow. Pastry princess Christy Tania – who made her name dishing up degustations at Melbourne’s first dessert restaurant, Om Nom – recently opened her first solo venue, Glacé in Windsor, where it’s about all manner of fab frozen desserts.

The French-trained pastry chef and MasterChef regular says she wants to hero good-quality ice cream because “who doesn’t like ice cream?”.

The store – which Tania has given a Yellow Submarine theme, complete with pipes and dials – serves up ice creams and sorbets, push pops and frozen desserts including ice cream eclairs and macarons, along with Proud Mary coffee.

Ice cream comes in a changing line-up of extravagant flavours – available in cups, cones and 500ml take-home packs that can be delivered via Uber Eats – including ‘boozy date’ (sticky date pudding in ice cream form), ‘spice cadet’ (choc with cinnamon, honey and nutmeg), and ‘matcha adzuki’ (green tea with sweet red bean paste).

I’ll be back for ‘ginger spice’, where butterscotch with a salty kick is swirled through vanilla ice cream hiding bursts of ginger heat, all finished with crunchy gingerbread rubble. It’s great.

So too are the cakes, whose good looks don’t come in lieu of good taste. Properly ripe banana defines the excellent ‘banoffee’ on a walnut rubble base, while creamy coconut and sharp raspberry shine in the ‘red roulade’ sponge. These are old-school flavour combinations amped up with modern technique.

The coffee is excellent, the vibe fun; the space a sunshiny burst that both brightens a grey day and provides cool respite when the temperature rises.

Watch out for an ice cream cart – submarine shaped, of course – that Tania hopes to have down by the St Kilda foreshore over summer (fingers crossed).

It’s quality stuff that has us licked. You could call it the ace of Glacé.