It seems like every second day a new sandwich shop opens in Sydney. The lunch box staple has spread across the four corners of the city like margarine, with more and more lunch counters opening every day.

The latest offering has sprouted up in the southwest suburb of Earlwood. No, not Marrickville, that’s banh mi territory, but the leafy, neighbourhood (pita) pocket next door. You can find Ol’ Mates on the bottom level of an apartment complex on Homer St, just over the banks of the Cooks River.

The venue is owned and run by brothers James and Nick Retsas, the old mates behind nearby cafe, Frank & Chitch.

Drive past and you’ll notice a sesame seed-like scattering of sandwich fans gathering on the sidewalk. The shop is mostly just one long sandwich counter, with a handful of yolk-colour stools inside and out.

It’s a truth universally acknowledged that the best things in life come between two slices of bread. And this is especially true at Ol’ Mates.

These aren’t your mum sandwiches. They’re not thrown together from whatever’s in the fridge. The short but carefully curated selection of sangas are extremely well considered. All the flavours, textures and ratios have been carefully thought out.

At the base level, you need good bread. At Ol’ Mates, they’ve opted for a freshly baked schiacciata, a Tuscan-style flatbread sourced from Thoroughbread Bakery in Kirrawee. It’s airy, light and crispy. Similar to focaccia but with a little bit more chew.

From the five on offer, the poached chicken sandwich is a deliciously-layered lesson in restraint. Succulent poached chicken is smothered in a creamy herb dressing, topped with a blanket of smashed avo, and cos leaves for crunch. It’s light. It’s elegant. It’s the kind of sandwich you could eat every day.

For something a little more meaty, the deli sandwich stacks up. This Italian-style sarnie brings together sopressa salami and mortadella with a fresh, wholesome trio of rocket, tomato and provolone cheese. To top it off, a smattering of guindilla peppers add a hot, sour bite.

Salad sandwiches may be the saddest in the category, but the one at Ol’ Mates shines brightly. The rainbow-coloured beauty takes its cues from the ’90s, bringing together grated carrot with avocado, rocket, and yes, even alfalfa sprouts. However it’s the tirokafteri, a sweet, salty feta and red pepper whip, that takes it to a whole new level.

Squidgy potato buns are used for the burgers. Our pick is the sausage and egg, stuffed with a Whole Beast Butchery sausage patty which has been grilled flat-out, smash burger-style. And depending on how big your night was last night, you can add a golden hashbrown, or some chips, on the side.

Man cannot live on bread alone. Which is why it’s also important to try the pastries and baked goods. The choc chip cookies are the best kind – massive, with rich, dark chocolate hunks strewn throughout. Or double up on the carbs with a doughnut, croissant or cinnamon bun.

Allpress is used for the espresso coffees, cold brews and iced lattes, which are all expertly made and served in cute branded cups.

Good for you Earlwood. Now, if only somewhere like this would open in my neighbourhood.