We should probably talk about the elephant in the room. It’s the room. And perhaps it’s more pretty peacock than monstrous mastodon, but with its dining room decked out in pink chairs, purple and grey carpet, gold-framed mirrors, hanging greenery, potted plants and fruity wallpaper, The Botanica feels like tie-dyed high tea in an almost-posh hotel.

Perhaps it’s not my cup of tea; others might be inspired to pop the kettle on and reach for a cucumber sandwich (no, they don’t serve them). Room aside, it’s worth pulling up a pew here because chef Perry Hill is a damn fine cook.
It’s the depth of flavour, an understanding of the building blocks of great dishes and a willingness to keep it simple that makes his food so enjoyable. Working with ingredients grown in the kitchen garden, produce from the owners’ farm in Jamberoo Valley and ethically sourced produce from Australia and New Zealand, Hill gives his menu a confident contemporary flourish.

The John Dory fish finger is a good place to start, the sweet white flesh sitting atop a long, slender croûton. Thick slices of eucalyptus-smoked Mount Cook alpine salmon work wonderfully with shavings of fried ginger, shredded cucumber and a lick of burnt butter, while pickled beetroot and horseradish make natural complements to house-made wagyu bresaola.

In the main-course line-up, a hearty scoop of smoked eggplant purée partners pretty pink lamb rump dotted with feta and beautifully underpinned by a rich, alluring jus.

Finish with warm blueberry tart topped with goat’s cheese meringue and freeze-dried raspberries and you’ll leave happy. The décor will be a hit for some and a miss for others, but with food like this, a solid natural-wine offering and the house-made botanical gin, it could be just the tonic.