Well, throw your sombreros in the air and jump into the <jarabe> (Mexico’s national dance). Thanks to Neil Perry, Patrón and Rockpool Dining Group, your next Mexican fix needn’t be a Tex Mex mélange of mediocrity. And sure, it doesn’t look like a Mexican restaurant – don’t expect piñatas and all the naff paraphernalia, but Bar Patrón by Rockpool is a great night out not only for an electric feed, but late-night tipple too. Perched overlooking Circular Quay and the harbour, it’s a typically smart, sophisticated ‘Neil Perry’ space that doesn’t take itself too seriously.

Start with the signature $100 Millionaire’s Margarita at the big, beautiful marble bar with water views, then step into the dining room proper where tiled floors, white walls, soft amber-brown Italian upholstered chairs, bronze and glass light fixtures and energetic waitstaff set the tone for a ripping feast.

Chef Pamela Valdés delivers a damn delicious interrelation of recipes she learned from her grandmother, as well as some homeland classics. There are snacks, tacos, empanadas, tostadas, tortillas and larger plates to construct and share. Start with a trio of salsas and house-made corn chips, stuffed pickled jalapenos, and a round of tostadas.

The beef empanada is light, crisp and bursting with flavour, and there’s even the homely pork and hominy soup too. Tacos are tiny, so order them by the truckload, and the pork with mole is more subtle than expected. It’s a cracking feed that doesn’t hurt the hip pocket.

Must-eat dish: Picadillo empanadas