This Indonesian resort will make you forget all about Bali
At the reborn surfer's retreat of Nihiwatu on Indonesia's remote Sumba Island, Georgia Harley checks in for a taste of 'rugged luxury'.
I’ve no sooner arrived at Nihiwatu Resort on Sumba Island than I’m offered a fresh coconut punctured with a sugar-cane straw. I may only be an hour’s flight from Bali’s Denpasar Airport, but here at the south-eastern tip of Indonesia, aka the edge of wilderness, I’m a million miles from the stresses of reality. As I sip on the cooling nectar, I’m greeted by my sarong-clad butler, here to guide me to one of the resort’s Marangga villas, my home for the next week. Inside, Sumba’s ancient tribal culture meets modern luxury. Don’t be fooled by the thatched roof, these uber-luxe villas feature a private bar, four-poster bed with ocean views straight from the pillow, a huge free-standing bathtub and an outdoor pavilion to laze in when I’m done with my own infinity pool and the turquoise Indian Ocean just beyond. This is barefoot luxury at its finest, and I’m already considering tearing up my passport to become a real-life Robinson Crusoe.

For those who have trouble unplugging, sunrise hilltop yoga overlooking the resort’s 2.5-kilometre private beach or a sunset horse ride along the same ridge should help wash any cares away. Health and wellbeing are a major focus here, and yoga is followed by a nourishing breakfast of fresh ginger and turmeric tea, a tropical fruit mocktail, buckwheat pancakes, woodfired paleo bread and housemade jam. But if a continental breakfast followed by a fry-up is your idea of bliss, you’ll also be satisfied. Nihiwatu’s social and eco credentials are just as impressive. Most staff are Sumba locals and the resort works closely with The Sumba Foundation to conduct medical outreach and education programs.

The in-house Ombak Restaurant is run by Aussie chef Ben McRae, formerly of The Adelaide Club. His hyper-local dishes make the most of produce from the resort’s organic kitchen garden. He tells me the menu caters for an “international crowd” (guests range from US celebrities, newlyweds, avid surfers and even Arab royalty) with a local spin. Tuna tataki with nigella seeds and papaya salad showcases locally caught seafood, and the Vietnamese pancake with grilled prawns, Asian slaw and pepper caramel sauce is a standout. The food is matched with an extensive global wine list – a boon in Asia, where spirits tend to dominate drink menus.
The next day I work off all that beautiful organic food on a Spa Safari, two words I never imagined I’d use in the same sentence. A 90-minute guided trek through green paddies and cassava plantations leads me to the resort’s secluded spa, a string of private huts dotted along the beach. From my hut, I gaze at the ocean with a coconut in hand as my skilled therapist washes my muddy, weary feet, preparing me for the next few hours of bliss – a full-body salt scrub, mud facial, hair smoothie and a relaxing body massage. If paradise was lost, I think I just found it.
Nihiwatu is offering a ‘one on one’ promo rate matching US dollars to Australian dollars for stays throughout 2017. For more information, visit: nihiwatu.com.