What’s in a name? Well, when it comes to restaurants a name can set the tone of expectation and the handle Coogee Wine Room speaks of a certain level of sophistication. If it were not in Australia, you might perceive ‘wine room’ as somewhere posher, but we like our  wine bars to have a certain swagger. We want great food and wine in a casual setting with verve. Coogee Wine Room delivers in spades.

It’s the first foray into hospitality for wine-loving owners Tom Hardwick and Michelle Morales. They nabbed venue manager Brooke Adey (late of Chiswick and Yellow), who has put together an  exciting 400-strong list of wines that alone is worth the visit – and the by-the glass list is as diverse as I’ve seen.

Exposed-brick walls, warm woods and a marble-top bar bring charm to the intimate ground-floor room. There’s a sense it’s been part of the community for some time, and yet it’s just flung its doors open. A lounge bar and more dining upstairs completes the space.

Former A Tavola head chef Sandro Di Marino offers a considered array of light Mediterranean share plates designed to partner wine. Cantabrian anchovies with cute toasts and coffee butter are a great way to whet the appetite, perhaps followed up with a soft bun filled with gelatinous pork cheek, cavolo nero, pickled chillies and Dijon mayonnaise. It’s lovely, if a little on the sweet side.

Mushroom carpaccio, meanwhile, is a delight – the slices ethereally thin and peppered with paprika and pine nuts and topped with just-melted manchego. A tumble of green beans, asparagus and snow peas partners pretty pink lamb rump with tarragon bread sauce. It’s spring on a plate. To finish, it’s hard to pass up light ricotta-filled cannoli, perhaps with something special from the wine list.

I get the feeling Coogee Wine Room is going to make a name for itself. It already has among the locals.