Side-step… glide… pirouette. The kaiseki at Hobart’s Omotenashi is a mesmerising sequence of carefully choreographed kitchen craft and profound, ingredient-led cooking that respects both the Japanese tradition on which it’s based and the finest Tasmanian produce. Picking one dish, then, is like singling out a single movement in a pas de deux. Perhaps it’s best to talk about the dashi broth, made from spring water collected from the slopes of nearby Mount Wellington. Flavoured with kelp and shavings of bonito, the first brew (ichi ban dashi) becomes a heavenly clear soup poured around nasturtium-green dumplings filled with a crayfish farce.
Shinjo owan at Omotenashi, Hobart, Tasmania