Any wannabe epicurean these days lists Tokyo as the must-eat destination; it’s on every chef’s pitch for a new television series, and Martin Benn of Sepia cites the place as a major inspiration. For the rest of us, there’s Chaco Bar.

Swipe aside the obligatory Japanese fabric noren at the entrance, step down a couple of stairs and into this moody dive of a place, dimly lit and seating only 25 people. Huge murals of Japanese cooks are painted on to the walls, and the smell of grilling meat fills the room. Scan the impressive drinks menu and the many sake, shochu and Japanese whiskies.

It’s offal-heavy yakitori (meaning grilled bird) here, and chicken hearts, “pint-centred” liver, tails, heart pipes, gizzards and gristle are skewered and grilled. For those who are chicken (sorry), go for the safer chicken crackling, the momo (thigh), and teba (wings). Melanda organic pork appears on skewers as well, and there are stubs of asparagus fragrant with smoke.

In Japan the best places specialise; those doing yakitori don’t do sushi or tempura. And so it is here, except for a few “smalls”. The John Dory dumpling is slippery and soft, there’s South Australian calamari with its ink aioli, and large asparagus with anchovy and Kyoto miso butter. It’s Chef Abe’s nod that this is, actually, Australia.

Chaco Bar also exclusively serves ramen between 12pm and 2pm Wednesdays to Sundays, when yakitori is off the menu, and we think it’s some of the best ramen in Sydney.
Tel: 02 9007 8352

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