Before an influx of hip cafes, this fine diner was leading the regional revival, writes Yasmin Newman.
It wasn’t so long ago when taking a trip and a culinary expedition in regional Oz weren’t mutually exclusive. Take New South Wales’ Central Coast, only a hop, skip and a jump from Sydney, as case in point. Today, however, new city-worthy cafes and restaurants along the stretch of beach towns are pulling in out-of-towners as much as the sunny setting.
But, it must be pointed out that way before the coast got hip, a few fine-diners were already leading the charge of the region’s revival. Pearls on the Beach, an easy breezy restaurant right on the sand’s edge in secluded Pearl Beach, was one of them.
It’s been 13 years now since husband-and-wife, chef and front-of-house owners Scott and Melissa Fox decamped to the coast to start the upmarket restaurant, but while they say they’ve always been doing the same thing, something important has occurred. This year, for the first time, Pearls snagged a coveted one chef’s hat.
Hats aren’t always indicative of greatness (much like a populated social media profile), but they sure do help boost one’s profile. In Pearls’ case, does it live up to the accolade? You betcha.
While the menu is a touch confusing to read, designed to eat a la carte or as share plates (read: appeal to everyone), given the diverse seasonal clientele, we won’t hold it against them. Our advice? Stick to the more inventive small plates, then share away.
Middle Eastern elements weave their way through the lineup of dishes and have you think chef may hail from afar too, but it’s just a point of interest, he tells us, much like the French technique that underpins his dishes and the diverse global ingredients that inform the range of flavours, too.
We start with bug tails, these ones inspired by US Southern fare – first coated in spice mix of the year, Old Bay, then roasted. The generous tumble, plump and juicy, sits on a bed of sweetcorn custard and succotash, a beautiful muddle of sweet and spiced notes.
Next, seared scallops look to India, paired with roasted cauliflower, peanut sambal and creamy-tangy coconut-tamarind puree. It’s rich, textured and balanced, like its predecessor. And both are abundant enough to stand in as a large plate at most Sydney restaurants.
Fennel marathokeftedes (fritters) piled on an unctuous walnut cream sauce with pickled fennel and sharp blood orange pieces for counterpoint are another highlight.
Dessert, while not full marks, is a worthy final resting point. Salted dark chocolate mousse, for example, with blackberry ice cream and chocolate soil is pretty, playful and moreish, bar the popcorn chocolate crackle which recalls the tasteless original a little too much for our liking.
Final tip: go for lunch or an early sunset dinner and request a table on the undercover deck for the calming sea breeze and picturesque views of the beach.
Setting is a key ingredient here at Pearls and another reason to skip town for a culinary jaunt – because, thankfully, now we can.
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