The first thing I’m asked after dining at a new restaurant is “How was the food?”

Sure, it’s a pretty important element, but the atmosphere and experience have as much influence on whether most of us return. Here’s where I find Kuro a curious proposition. With four elements – bar, dining, a chef’s table (to come) and a brew bar for daytime tea and coffee – the ambience and décor, in some instances, are a bit confusing.

Co-owners Alan Wong and chef Taka Teramoto and architects Henderson & Co have created an elegant, spare space in the CBD heritage building with the help of Japanese craftsmen.

Gold-flecked cracks drawn in the concrete floor mimic kintsugi, the art of mending pottery, while American oak beams form a light installation adjusted over the day. It’s rather beautiful. The dark marble tables and white chairs, however, feel misplaced here.

The small concrete-topped bar is also rather beautiful and while the wine list by sommelier Wanaka Teramoto, Taka’s wife, champions minimal-intervention varieties well, Japanese-inspired cocktails are a big focus here.

Executive chef Taka Teramoto and head chef Nobu Maruyama deliver a modern Japanese menu with a deft touch and big flavours. Tuna tartare with shibazuke pickle and seaweed speckled rice crisps is lovely, and while the black charcoal powder coating fried chicken isn’t pretty, it makes for tasty eating with the salty ume plum gel.

Among the larger dishes, shiso chimichurri offsets the gaminess of thick-cut charred beef tongue nicely, velvety beef jus and red-wine salt are exquisite with a blushing Ranger’s Valley tri-tip wagyu, and crisp-skinned hapuku stars in a stunning seafood broth with wood-ear mushrooms and crackers made with harusame noodles. End with crème brûlée hidden beneath a matcha crumble and you’ll be well sated.

So, how was the food? Well, curiously good actually.