Has Sydney reached peak burger? The deluge of heart-stopping buns is hard to avoid, but there was a time when one burger ruled them all – Dan Hong’s Lotus cheeseburger. It was the star of the show at the original Lotus while Hong was on the pans.

After a seven-year hiatus during which the site was home to The Fish Shop, Lotus 2.0 has returned and so has the burger, albeit in Americanised guise.

Gone is the savoury seeded bun, in its place a much sweeter, softer potato bun from Martin’s. A patty of brisket and chuck along with maple-smoked bacon, cheese and Japanese mayo make an overly sweet handful. It should come with a side of defibrillator. The burger’s cult status probably meant Hong had to menu it. No doubt fans will be queueing for it, but along with a triple-cheese toastie it feels out of context here given the balance and harmony around it.

Take the tuna entrée. Generous slabs of raw tuna with a soy and ginger dressing and a wasabi emulsion is the best entrée I’ve had all year. A salad of asparagus, peas, parmesan, crumbed egg and gem lettuce with a green goddess dressing is spring on a plate. Browned butter with fish sauce, chilli and lemon bring an umami hit to roasted bugs. The hot fudge sundae, though, like the burger, would be perfectly at home in an American diner.

Gone are the fishing-tackle trappings of its predecessor. The smart white space has re-engaged with the ’70s glamour of venues past with a vintage sofa, bistro chairs and mirrored ceiling. The Onyx bar is back and there’s alfresco dining streetside.

With a strong cocktail game, highly accessible tight wine list and sharp service there’s much to celebrate with Lotus 2.0. The refashioned burger may well be the lure for the Instagrammers, but it’s the lovely touch of a very talented chef on the rest of the menu that’s the real joy here.