In an age when old buildings aren’t often spared the indignity of the developers’ wrecking ball, behold St Kilda’s Village Belle.

The 127-year-old boozer has had a $15 million facelift, and the results shine over four bars that honour the building’s past while firmly bringing it into 2018.

The rejuvenated front bar feels old school yet fresh. Upstairs you’ll find the balcony bar with a bird’s-eye view down Acland Street, and the Doulton Lounge, a classy late-night cocktail den and disco with curved booths and live DJs.

But all hail the garden bar. It’s sun-soaked yet sheltered under a retractable glass roof soaring three storeys. It’s heated for winter while fans, misters and an abundance of greenery give a tropical feel on hot spritzy days.

To eat, head chef Mathew Macartney (ex Lake House in Daylesford and Yarra Valley’s Chateau Yering) covers all bases with pub classics like parmas and steaks as well as pizza made from scratch and cracking desserts.

Start right with lovely bronzed, creamy-centred scallops that dot an endive salad also lively with diced chorizo and shatterings of crisp pig’s ear. A whole barramundi is all juicy- fleshed deliciousness to go with braised leeks and greens, glistening under a burnt butter sauce.

Raise the steaks with four name- checked cuts – our 250g scotch fillet was well rested and full of flavour – accompanied by a simple salad, good chips and three types of mustard.

End sweetly with a chocolate fondant that’s rich and goo-ey hearted. A crema Catalana comes as glorious splodges of sunshine topped with sugary crostoli and a sharp fruit compote.

Cocktails are many and varied (Bacon Bloody Mary, anyone?) for a fun night on the tiles.

The sticky carpet may have gone, but Village Belle retains its St Kilda charm, ready for whatever occasion you can throw at it.