There are many good things to know about Arlechin. That it’s open until 3am, seven days a week, for starters. That it’s a laneway bar with Grossi family smarts hidden behind the walls of Grossi Florentino, is another. That there’s a cracking cocktail list helped in its creation by one of the city’s sharpest shakers (Joe Jones), as well as the full Florentino cellar that’s here for the drinking, and that it’s already become Melbourne’s hospo hangout of choice. Yep, all good intel.

But the best thing? There are flaming doughnuts on the menu. Yes, at Arlechin, you’ll find great balls of fire to set your night alight.

But first, you’ll likely have plundered one of the best bar menus in the land, filled with things that are good to eat when you’re three sheets to the wind.

You’ll have smashed a jaffle filled with bolognese – because of course you will – and likely demolished a jumbo quail hiding in its thick coat of chilli-battered crunch swiped through a spicy barbecue sauce.

There’s the not-to-be-missed baccala-and-charred leek take on a Sloppy Joe, as well as deftly crumbed fritters of smoked tongue sandwiched between rice for a very 2017 take on arancini.

Midnight spaghetti – a twirl of capers, bright tomatoes and fresh basil – is a burst of sunshine under the cover of the moon. A bowl of butter-rich risoni with sticky balsamic and studded with bone marrow will find many fans.

A salty hit to the jelly slice is a deliciously retro moment. And those doughnuts? Filled with custard and covered with fairy floss that a spritz of alcohol and a lighter quickly turn into a brulee crust, they are as fun as they are citrus tasty.

It’s a class offering from a crew that understands hospitality. All you really need to know is Arlechin is on fire.