Sometimes, when Lady Luck is visiting your neighbourhood, you can stumble on a well-kept local secret on an otherwise commonplace stroll. You might happen across a clandestine cafe, a hole-in-the-wall bakery, an unsigned eatery or, perhaps, if you’re really lucky, a newly opened, striking rooftop watering hole hidden in plain sight above an espresso bar. Gigi Rooftop has flung open its doors and roof coverings in what some may consider an unexpected neck of the woods, above its coffee- slinging sibling Umberto Espresso Bar on Thornbury’s High St.

Offering a view of Thornbury few will have seen before – spanning out towards the Macedon Ranges – a cocktail list you’ll want to return to conquer, and light repast that cleverly befits an afternoon spent imbibing sundowners, Gigi Rooftop is destined to become a fast-tracked favourite, north of Carlton. And though it may seem as though this open-air bar popped up on its perch overnight, it’s been two pandemic-led years in the making.

Despite delays and some patience-testing pauses, the support from locals since the bar’s January 2022 opening suggests the Umberto Group’s vision has been worth any wait. Marco Finanzio, who named the bar after his daughter, explains, “I wanted to create something that was completely out of my comfort zone.”

Of course, Finanzio is no stranger to the Victorian hospitality world, having also opened Joanie’s Baretto, and Gigi Rooftop’s downstairs neighbour Umberto Espresso, and co-founded the Melbourne Salami Festa. The result of his group’s latest project which Finanzio says is “not Italian”, is a bright, breezy and exuberant bar that feels sophisticated yet warm.

A vibrant orange-tile-backed bar is lined with all the makings of a tempting cocktail menu. The Gigi Spritz, combining Pampelle Ruby L’Apero, Cocchi Rosa and grapefruit sets the tone, while the Blood Feud, which sees Rooster Reposado Tequila, bitter amaro and mezcal mingle in the glass, shows off the skills of venue manager Angus Cummin’s own curations. Then there’s the Bananavardier, a concoction of Plantation Dark Rum, banana liquor, pineapple-infused Campari and Cocchi Torino Sweet Vermouth, which is, like Gigi Rooftop, an unexpected but welcome surprise.

Alongside the cocktail list sits low-intervention wines from local makers, including Jamsheed and Minimum Wines, beer from Heaps Normal and Ocean Reach Brewing, and a dedicated zero- and low-alcohol drinks selection.

Beautifully matched to the bar’s signature cocktails is its bar snack menu. From South Australian marinated sardine skewers and Sydney Rock Oysters, to the inventive cheesy N’duja soldiers and classic ricotta-and-lemon-stuffed zucchini flowers, each dish is executed in delicious fashion.

Speaking of fashion, the venue’s fit-out epitomises pared-back Melburnian style. Gigi Rooftop’s clean lines and white furnishings allow minimal wooden accents, marbled tabletops, verdant plantlife and sunlight to bring the locale to life. The bar’s sleek, monochrome silhouette forms a distinct contrast to the surrounding High Street’s historic structures. And, never fear, a custom sealable roof design means this rooftop bar is one that won’t become washed out on those less-than-sunny, late Melbourne afternoons – presenting a fail-proof location for sunset viewing no matter the weather.

“Golden hour is quite spectacular and no two evenings are alike,” Finanzio says.

Related bar reviews: The Golden Fleece Hotel brings a slice of Santorini to South Melbourne