When you have the smarts of Con Christopoulos, who has arguably done more than anyone to promote Melbourne’s liveability thanks to his approach to food and wine (see Supper Club, The European et al) combined with Ian Curley in the kitchen, it’s hardly surprisingly that Kirk’s Wine Bar has been the success it has been since day dot.

It’s a place where the morning coffee comes with Dr Marty’s crumpets served with hand-churned butter, or Harris smokehouse salmon blinis, but when the clock strikes noon this wine bar really hits its straps.

There’s always something interesting from here or afar on the pour – a cheeky local chenin or a lovely luscious Loire and lots in between, with the menu filled with good eating to complement that good drinking. There’s oysters and meats and cheese, of course, and one of the best steaks in the city (a marrow butter-topped flat iron that’s a plate of sublime beauty) but also comfort dishes writ loud: baked meatballs and gnocchi and soup could all feature written up as specials on the green tiles behind the bar.

Service is casually sharp and knowledgable – and approachable, which is important when talking all things grape – and pricing uniformly fare.

Its motto is “in vino veritas” (in wine there is truth) and the truth is, this is a top-shelf gem. Smart indeed.

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