Having lived in London for eight years when I was a young chef, I know what a good old English pub looks, feels and smells like. Entering The Duke of Clarence I’m back in London and 20 again, even down to the Brit-pop playing – but without the heavy beer stench and sticky old carpet.

That The Duke of Clarence is secretly hidden in a laneway of Sydney’s CBD further transports you to the narrow back alleys of London, and being greeted by a friendly face on arrival makes this feel just like your local boozer.

We know owner Mikey Enright as the passionate liquor dealer and gin extraordinaire of Sydney’s The Barber Shop, but one of his biggest dreams was to open an English tavern like the ones from his homeland in Australia. By combining high-end cocktails, British beers and classic pub food cooked by British chef David Penistone, Enright has fulfilled his dream in the perfect space.

To be honest, the food is exactly as you would imagine it to be at a UK tavern, with classics like fish and chips, gammon, pork pies, Scotch eggs and lamb fry making up the menu.

Lamb’s liver, $18

As one of my all-time favourites, my first pick was the peasant-food classic lamb fry, just the way I remember it. A little overcooked for my liking, but that is the English way after all! Plenty of sweet caramelised onions scattered with crispy bacon and served with potato mash – the difference between the British and the French is I would put more butter and cream in my mash! But there you go…

Fish and chips, $18

This seaside favourite did not disappoint – it may sound simple but it ain’t. This serving was a generous piece of blue-eye cod with a thick coating of golden crispy batter giving a satisfying a crunch in every bite, with tangy sauce tartare, hand-cut chips with the skin on (of course), and perfectly seasoned.

Pie of the week, $22

Although the gammon caught my eye, I was swayed by our waitress Lilly’s suggestion of the pie of the day, which on this day was venison, pinot noir, mushroom and chocolate sauce. For 22 ‘bucks’ this pie is on the large side and very moreish, not encased in shortcrust or puff pastry, but in a hot-water-crust pastry. Venison is a very lean meat and for that reason can be a little dry, but when covered with Nanna’s classic gravy in this dish, it does the job.

Sardines on toast, $18

Another favourite of mine and once again so quintessentially English is sardines on toast, though at The Duke of Clarence we’re not talking about the tinned variety! A nicely charred slice of sourdough bread topped with flash-grilled fresh sardine fillets, served with a side of perfectly balanced horseradish crème fraîche and peppery watercress got my taste buds dancing.

THE VERDICT

With an uncomplicated and not overly extensive menu, not to mention the great selection of beers, wines, spirits and cocktails (enhanced by a few European offerings only available here), I could happily graze and sip at The Duke of Clarence for the whole afternoon – but, alas, I have a meeting to get to. Overall a great lunch; I’ll be back for dinner.

Best seat: Right at the back corner, hidden by glass partitions in a cosy spot.

Best drink: The British tap beers are amazing especially the Speckled Hen

Date Safe: If you want to treat a classy English ‘bird’ to a pukka night out – this is the place!

X-Factor: It’s a cool, Brit-style pub

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