If you’re always running late for your dinner reservations, perhaps don’t book beneath a 400-tonne clocktower.

That’s one of the main takeaways from my recent dining experience at Menzies Bar and Bistro, the first venue to open within the historic Shell House.

The new multi-level venue, which contains Sky Bar, Clocktower Bar, The Dining Room, and Menzies Bar & Bistro, brings 1,600 sqm of dedicated drinking and dining space to a heritage building in the Sydney CBD.

Frequenters of the Menzies Hotel will notice that the ground-level space has had a serious glow-up since the Point Group – the hospo crew behind The Dolphin, Harpoon Harry’s and Bondi Public Bar – snapped up the space.

Previously, this inner-city boozer was good for a schooey or two before heading home for dinner. Times have certainly changed.

The newly renovated space has been given a heritage-inspired fit-out that includes bistro-style leather booths and a large central wraparound bar that feels straight out of a hotel.

Not that you’ll notice the finer details, swing by after 5pm on a work night and it will be so packed you won’t even be able to find your friends.

While the atmosphere is still decidedly pubby, the food is not. The new menu by executive chef, Joel Bickford trades out the counter meals for European-style snacks and supper dishes that wouldn’t be out of place at Aria, where Bickford used to work.

Chicken liver eclairs are made from two choux buns piped with pâté finished with orbs of trout roe and amaro jelly that look and taste like they belong at a much swankier diner. They’re deliciously rich, which makes up for the small-ish size.

More generous are the fritto misto, a sophisticated take on salt and pepper calamari, which comes with ‘nduja mayonnaise, a hot Calabrian take on the classic chilli mayo.  Smoked eggplant and parmesan polpette (meatballs) are the crowd favourite – each crunchy ball filled with a smoky babaganoush-style filling.

Those with champagne taste on a beer budget should swing by at 4pm for $10 fresh lobster rolls and $10 mini martinis.

While the snacks can seriously rack up your bill, there are some beefier options on the menu like the wagyu burger and a vongole and fermented chilli linguine that’s as good as you’ll find in any Italian diner.

The drinks list is particularly impressive, boasting a significant selection of new world wines and progressive classics, with a focus on family-based producers and organic, biodynamic and sustainable drops.

For the same price as the house prosecco, a Vermentino pet-nat is bright and minerally with aromas of white flowers and citrus that pairs well with almost everything on the menu.

And just like that, the night is over. Time flies when you’re having fun.