Melbourne’s inner east isn’t known for its wine bars, but Nazar in Kew is the latest arrival to suggest things are changing. The modern Turkish wine bar joins Italian-inspired Bar Alba, which opened further along Cotham Rd last year, and it comes hot on the heels of Hawthorn’s classy new Motor Wine Bar on nearby Glenferrie Rd (AFL’s Max Gawn is part of that team). This is another very welcome addition to the local scene.

Nazar Wine Bar is the final instalment at George Calombaris’s former Hellenic Republic, which is also home to Mediterranean-focused Cotham Dining and an upstairs events space.

Long-time chefs Ayhan Erkoc and Federico Perez Lopez are the duo behind the three- pronged venture, and they literally flipped a coin to decide whether their wine bar would showcase Perez Lopez’s Colombian heritage or Erkoc’s Turkish roots. Perez Lopez apparently took it well.

We learn this from Erkoc because – for now – he’s working the floor of this intimate venue. Here, it’s all fresh white walls, feature aqua tiles and a striking string-art evil eye, with an Aussie flourish of gum leaves and branches strung from above.

As Erkoc explains, he preps in the kitchen before downing tools and manning the room for the night. This isn’t necessarily the long-term plan, and it’s a new role for him, but it’s a treat to have him explain the concept and his considered menu.

Turkish favourites get a contemporary Australian spin in dishes made for sharing over a glass of wine. Among the snacks is the highlight venison kebab ($19), with its bite-sized charry pieces threaded on saltbush and served on baharat cream. There’s also the bite-sized akitma ($15) – “like Turkish crumpets” – topped with taramasalata and salmon roe, which cry out for a glass of fizz.

Related review: Shane Delia’s Jayda is the life and soul of the party 

Waste is a focus in the kitchen, with asparagus shavings magicked into a fine crisp, adding a salty crunch to the grilled white asparagus ($20). And for a true taste of Turkey, the feta manti ($35) offers a silky, refined take on the traditional dumplings, complete with a chilli-laced yoghurt sauce.

Desserts also feature, including the cannoli-like crispy pumpkin shell filled with candied lemon, yoghurt mousse and pistachio. Hungrier guests might go the whole hog and opt for the substantial $90 feed-me menu (or as they call it, “F@!K it, I’m here for a good time”).

Turkish touches also add interest to the smart drinks list, with cocktails such as the Apple Tea Whiskey Sour and Turkish Coffee Martini, plus there’s Turkish wines, too. The team sampled more than 60 options before settling on just six, with the rich white Sevilen Nativus Narince among those that made the cut; think chardonnay meets pinot gris.

Here is a place to meet up for a quick drink and a bite, or settle in for the full dining experience. Nab a stool at the bar’s street-front windows – they open right up on a warm evening – and, with a little luck, Erkoc will still be front of house to share a few of his stories.

Related review: Eat lavish like the Romans do with Luci’s spring-cleaned menu