It might be small in name and by nature, but what this excellent new little bar lacks in size it makes up for in stature. With space for 25 at a push, this first venture by Jess Ho is seamless showcase of wines that get the hospo heads all hot under the collar (small boutique producers, unpronounceable varietals), but that the rest of us just file under delicious.

This transformed garage space in a South Melbourne laneway next to St Ali is a stylishly chic affair, where booths and bar seating are set with good glassware and cutlery, with staff working the floor who talk through that list with passionate aplomb.

And, thanks to St Ali chef Andy Gale, bar snacks are a big step up from the norm, though there’s enough good stuff on the menu to make a proper meal of a night. A sharp, cheesy croque monsieur might come topped with shaved truffle for added lux; a black pudding parfait swaps out the chicken livers for spicy pork to great effect, while chicken parma ‘fingers’ are as inspired as they are delicious.

Compact but still spacious, whether it’s the chilli-spiced chickpeas that hit the table gratis upon seating, or the Boilermaker special (tap beer and a shot of Fernet Branca) and classic cocktails that are all class, Smalls is playing a big part in maintaining Melbourne’s reputation as one of the world’s best bar cities.

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